Art Deco Revival Geometric Bronze Brooch with Ruby-Red Crystals from Erte, 1980s

A rare and striking European Art Deco Revival statement brooch bearing the impressed block-letter mark “ERTE” on the reverse, associated with the celebrated artist and designer Erté — Romain de Tirtoff.
Dating to circa the 1980s, the period in which Erté’s Art Deco vocabulary experienced an important international revival through sculpture, jewellery and collectible decorative works, the brooch displays the theatrical geometry and sophisticated architectural language closely associated with his designs.
The clearly impressed “ERTE” mark corresponds in form and lettering to signatures documented on authenticated Erté bronze works. Its placement on the reverse is prominently photographed as an integral identifying feature of the piece.
The substantial bronze-alloy body is constructed as a bold stepped octagonal plaque, framed by sharply defined architectural borders and rhythmic ribbed details. These sculptural elements create a strong Streamline Moderne profile and transform the brooch into a miniature example of wearable architecture.
Five large circular-cut ruby-red glass crystals form a dramatic linear composition across the center. Each stone measures approximately 1 cm in diameter and is individually secured by shaped metal prongs within an open-backed setting. This construction allows light to travel through the glass, revealing rich tonal variations from deep garnet to brilliant ruby red.
The contrast between the austere geometric metalwork and the saturated colour of the five faceted stones gives the brooch an exceptional visual presence. with its generous dimensions and substantial weight, it functions not merely as an accessory but as a small collectible sculpture designed to be worn.
The bronze-alloy surface has developed a rich, naturally aged silver-grey patina with warmer tonal variations, subtle oxidation and iridescent highlights on the reverse. These original surfaces have been preserved as an important part of the object’s vintage character.
The reverse is fitted with its original spring-loaded European trombone safety clasp, which operates smoothly and closes securely.
A distinctive collector’s piece for admirers of Erté, Art Deco Revival jewellery and powerful geometric design.
CONDITION
Very good vintage condition, consistent with age and use. The metal retains its original naturally developed patina, with oxidation and minor surface wear.
The five ruby-red glass crystals are intact, securely mounted and without chips or significant structural damage. Minor surface wear is consistent with age. The original trombone safety clasp remains fully functional.
Please refer closely to the detailed photographs of the front, reverse, mark, stones, open-backed settings and clasp.
DIMENSIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS
Length: 7.2 cm
Width: 4.2 cm
Thickness of metal body: approximately 4 mm
Crystal diameter: approximately 1 cm each
Weight: approximately 21 g
Designer: Erté — Romain de Tirtoff
Mark: Impressed “ERTE” on the reverse
Period: circa 1980s
Style: Art Deco Revival / Geometric Modernism
Materials: Bronze alloy and faceted ruby-red glass crystals
AUTHENTICITY NOTE
The identification is based on the clearly impressed “ERTE” mark and its close correspondence with signatures documented on authenticated Erté bronze works. The brooch is not accompanied by a separate certificate or archival documentation.